My one month anniversary in Liverpool came and went without fanfare, which was fine by me. I spent the day in amazement that I had been in England for a month already. It still feels like I just arrived in Liverpool but at the same time if feels like it has been so long since I left a pretty established life in Oregon!

Some of the Primark specialties

I tend to be a creature of habit, happily eating the same thing for breakfast every weekday (oatmeal) and since being in Liverpool I've been trying to avoid setting myself up in a routine. Hence my blog posts have been inconsistent so I don't feel obligated to spend my morning sitting at a computer. I've still been spending my days exploring Liverpool, spending time in the free museums and libraries and doing a lot of walking. It's a Christmas zoo downtown with people shopping like they are crazed amongst the twinkly lights. In Primark, a super budget clothing store, I heard a young British guy say, "I think people lose their minds when they come into Primark".  It's true, people are going nuts in that store, especially for their holiday collection of novelty Christmas sweaters and onesies (the next generation of snuggies).

I have seen men wear these on the street. Yes. Imagine them with classic Addidas or  old school Reeboks. 

In other news, I joined a ladies crafting group called Neighbourhood Sewcial and I've gotten together with them for crafting and adult beverages twice so far, the first time at one of the member's homes (down the street from where John Lennon grew up!) and the second time at the Neighbourhood Cafe, our "clubhouse".  We've been making holiday decorations which I will show in a future post. I can't take a photo of our holiday decor until I clean a huge splat of bird poo off the window behind all the pretties!  Instead I will show some photos of our neighbourhood and the flat. Prepare for a tour.

The Aigburth Rail Station which is around the corner from our flat and the way we get into the  city center.

Our street sign

Looking down Alma Road

Midway down the block is Bentfield!

When exiting the train station we get a view of the Mersey River!

Yes, a skeleton key is my house key!

Our living room. Love the big window. Last night I was looking out and saw a fox run across the neighbours lawn!

Table and our display case with the digital radio on top!

The tiny kitchen. See our 1/2 size gas stove and dorm fridge? We have a separate freezer in the hall closet!

Our flat also has two bedrooms and a bathroom but those seem boring to photograph. Our bedspread is blue and the guest bedspread is pink argyle, like you would see in a freshman's dorm room. Excellent.

Liverpool In Its Prime

Liverpool has a reputation as a land of "scallie men" and hooligans given the extreme poverty and joblessness in the area from the 1970s to the 1990s. Before I moved to England whenever I told a Brit I was headed to Liverpool they would make a little noise and say "oh, Liverpool" and force a smile. Some admitted that in the past they would avoid the whole Merseyside because they thought their car stereos would be stolen. But many also said that the city was improving and that Liverpool's status as a European Capital of Culture in 2008 provided an entirely new direction for the city. The thing is, it wasn't really a new direction for Liverpool but rather a return to some of the earlier grandeur of this city.

Large manor homes dot the various neighborhoods of Liverpool and he skyline is full of gorgeous buildings that went up when it was the center of

Some of Liverpool's Grand Past

the global shipping trade. Shipping can be a broad term and it is important to identify that this wealth primarily came from Liverpool's role in the transatlantic slave trade. In this "trade triangle" ships from Liverpool would carry finished products to Northern Africa, unload them, sail down the coast to Southern Africa and pick up slaves, transport the slaves to the Caribbean/Americas to work in sugar/cotton/tobacco plantations, load up with these goods to bring back to the UK for processing, and then take the finished products to Northern Africa to re-start the cycle. By the early 1800s around 40% of all the worlds trade goods came through the port at Liverpool as a result of the slave trade as well as trade with Asia. Last week I visited the International Slavery Museum in Liverpool and I appreciated the honest description of Liverpool's role in the injustice of slavery. An interesting tidbit is that despite the fact that slavery was outlawed in England by 1834, Liverpool was a sympathizer to the Confederacy during the US Civil War and built ships for the south. 

Albion House, The White Star Line Headquarters

The other boon to the shipping trade in Liverpool was immigration to Australia, Canada and the United States. My great-grandfather John Morgan sailed from Liverpool when he emigrated from Wales to the US!  This transport of immigrants was highly profitable and Liverpool was headquarters of the White Star Line, a company most famous for building and owning the Titanic! Despite the fact that the Titanic never spent time in Liverpool, it was registered to the White Star Line so Liverpool was painted on the stern of the ship. I spent some time exploring the Merseyside Maritime Museum (it's in the same building as the slavery museum) which in addition to a big exhibit on the Titanic also includes exhibits on the Battle of the Atlantic, the UK Merchant Navy and the changes in shipbuilding over several hundred years. 

Can you tell a difference?

This is a bit of a tangent but two of the most thought provoking exhibits in this museum were an exhibit on illegal goods coming into the UK via all ports (air and sea) and an exhibit on homosexuality on cruise ships. The exhibit on illegal goods had opportunity for kids to try their hand at pinpointing false goods and identifying illegal transport. In what was probably the weirdest and most hilarious example, attendees were asked to identify coffee by smell and determine if poo had been added to it. I wouldn't have noticed this portion of the exhibit if I hadn't seen an elderly woman deviously trying to get her grandson to take a big whiff.

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The exhibit on homosexuality on cruise ships was at first glance striking because of the flamboyant pink sign which I first thought was using "gay"in terms of happiness. The exhibit told the story of how gay men found community in little micro-societies on cruise liners in the 1970s and 1980s which allowed them to be "out" as opposed to the hidden and often persecuted lives they led when on land. The other striking thing about this exhibit was the fact that it was right beside the kids section, a placement which I doubt would ever happen in the US because a museum would want to avoid complaints from conservatives and prudes.

Another vivid example of Liverpool's former glory is Sefton Park, a public green space a little south of the city center. Sefton Park was opened in 1872 on a parcel of land that had been a royal hunting ground until the late 1500s. It is over 200 acres and contains ponds, trees, meadows, playing fields and lovely areas to relax. In the summer Liverpudlians come here with barbecues and picnics and enjoy the sun and company. Sefton Park is where Justin and I enjoyed the Bonfire Night fireworks display just a few weeks ago. It is a beloved landmark in the city and a huge part of Liverpool culture. Right now the mayor of Liverpool is in a fight with most of the city for his plan to sell off one of the park meadows for development into condos. Big news is that the city historian found the original park plans and it shows that the meadow was purposefully designed as a part of the the park, not left as an afterthought of unused space. In theory this should mean that the meadow is protected and not available for the mayor to sell, but we'll see. So far the mayor sounds like a bit of a dimwit since his other plan is to do away with the bus lanes which also serve as the bike lanes.  Anyway, here are some photos of Sefton Park which barely do it justice!

The view from the Southern Entrance to Sefton Park

The park designer purposefully left parts un-manicured

In my humble opinion, the most impressive part of Sefton is the Palm House. It was build in 1896 and contained exotic plants from around the world. During the war the glass was shattered by nearby bombings and despite some repair in the 1950s it sat in a somewhat decrepit state for 50 years. In the late 1990s some local people who remembered visiting the Palm House as children decided to campaign and fundraise to restore the building under the guidance of the local conservation society. It reopened in 2005 and contains an amazing variety of plants. Outside of the Palm House are sculptures of famous explorers and scientists like Captain Cook and Charles Darwin. In addition to being open each day for visits by the public it is used for concerts and special events. On a cold Liverpool day nothing seems better than to walk inside and be surrounded by bright tropical colors and warm air! 

Palm House? Don't mind if I do. 

Just like in Hawaii

Some of the gorgeous orchids.

Have a seat and enjoy the colors

I don't know what this is but I dig it. 

The statues guarding the Palm House

In focusing on so many structures and institutions build in the 1800s I'm not sure I conveyed the current culture (in terms of arts and intellectualism) of Liverpool the way that I intended. This city has 18 well used branch libraries in addition to the utterly gorgeous Central Library which was refurbished and reopened two months ago. But perhaps the best way to express the culture of this place by the fact that most of the museums or historical buildings I've visited have noted that it was a group of local citizens who had the impetus to create or restore the museum or building. The Liverpudlians recognize the importance of the local historical record and are determined to share their past and preserve it for the future. Perhaps it is to combat their reputation or perhaps it is less about the external views of the city and more about an internal recognition of what this city has. In any case I have reaped the benefits of this cultural capital and feel all the richer for being here. 

Let's go to a bike race!

I've been in Liverpool for just over one week now and it is starting to feel like home. So far I've only been lost twice and I've ridden the train in wrong direction just one time, which is pretty good considering that there aren't any hills or mountains visible for me to orient myself!  The people in Liverpool are very friendly and they like to point out that they are much nicer than Londoners, a statement that might have less to do with Liverpool and more to do with the fact that London bashing seems like a trend anywhere outside of London. Anyway....

Smart Car with a trunk rack! 

This past Saturday Justin had a cyclocross race which was conveniently held in park down the road from our flat! During summer Justin joined the Liverpool Century Road Club (founded 1916!) so he could meet some other cyclists and the club served as race hosts. He went down to the park just after sunrise and helped the club set up the course. I wandered down a few hours later and hauled equipment for the race pit. It was great to meet some of Justin's friends who I've heard about all summer, especially a silly Welshman named Geraint who spent several years living in the US while he pursued a Post Doc.  It seems like his experience as a foreigner in the US has made him extra empathetic to foreigners living in the UK as he has been constantly helpful to Justin since they met.  Geraint was the race announcer and race DJ which meant that instead of the usual UK pop, the racers heard a mix of late 1990s top 40 tunes along with such exciting hits as Donna Summer's "Hot Stuff" which made everyone think of the Full Monty. This was kind of awkward given all the lycra.

The pink bike ladies battle it out in the "Under 10" category!

The event started at 11am with the first few races dominated by the youth categories. The Under 18 group was as to be expected, a bunch of teenagers taking themselves too seriously on bikes that their parents spent a fortune on. A particular highlight was seeing a cocky teenager in a completely coordinated outfit and bike warm up by trying to bunny hop the barricade. He had an epic fail and fell on his face despite the fact that the barricade was about as high as a US curb. Wah wah.

My favorite category was the Under 10 group which was dominated by little girls between the ages of 4 and 6! It was pink bikes and pink wellies! One girl rocked a fawn colored velour track suit with her boots. Yes! They were all smiles, unlike most of the other racers on the field that day. Why so serious?

Justin warms up in his jeans.  No Brit would ever do this!

Over the past five years I've been to a lot of cyclocross races, mostly in or around Portland as a part of the Cross Crusade Series. Those races are like a muddy carnival with tons of cowbells (a European tradition), fun music, beer gardens, cones of Belgian style frites (with garlic mayo) and generally over a 1000 people. The races and spectators are silly, prone to heckling and tempting racers with hand-ups of dollars, bacon or beer. Don't know what a hand-up is? Here's a tutorial video. Now imagine it as sillier (donuts on fishing poles, dollars in cleavage, etc) and you will get the idea of the PDX cyclocross scene.

The Pros at the start.

The Northwest (England) Cyclocross Association is a stark contrast to the Portland scene. Racers brought pit bikes and mobile washing stations for their "mechanics" to spray off their bikes between laps! So serious! No beers, no frites and only one fan with a cowbell for most of the races (me). Do you know what one cowbell sounds like for three hours? I do and so do all the people at the Otterspool race. Ha ha!  I only heckled Justin despite wanting to heckle all, but I was worried about damaging the Brit's self esteem. So I just cheered all of them, especially on the challenging hills and the muddy run-ups. I think people were surprised by the cheers from a total stranger. I got some odd looks but also some smiles and thanks. And one poor guy told me he was ready to quit on the second lap. I guess since I talked to him during the race he felt willing to talk back. It was like race therapy. After the race a bunch of racers posted their thanks for a great atmosphere on the Liverpool Century Facebook page. I like to think it was my cowbell.

Liverpool Century Riders (plus the extensive spectators)

The Liverpool Century riders looked good in their snazzy black and white kits. I met a few of them before the race and took photos of anyone in the outfit. Justin rocked a Liverpool Century Club Jersey (borrowed from Joe) along with his orange OSU Cycling Club shorts. This outfit combined with the purple Spooky bike made him easy to spot on the course!

Justin shows everyone in England how to ride up a hill in the mud (thanks Oregon!)

Justin investigates the mud and grass stuck in his derailleur.

After the last race we helped the club dismantle the course and pack the equipment. We walked home and after Justin cleaned up we walked to Mossley Hill to eat dinner at Pi, a tiny restaurant specializing in hand pies and beer! Not a bad day!

Happy Justin starts our five minute walk home! A nice day along the Mersey River!

Remember, Remember....

The Fifth of November looms large in the UK. It is Bonfire Night, a nicer name for what used to be commonly called Guy Fawkes Day.  In 1605 a group of fed up Catholics tried to kill the King and Prince of Wales by blowing up parliament. Guy Fawkes was the person found in the basement guarding the 36 barrels of gun powder and was executed after being caught. The common people were told that the king was saved which led to celebratory fires, and later, fireworks. In many places an effigy of Guy Fawkes, called "the Guy" is created by children and thrown on the bonfire.

This little youtube animated video does a nice job of summing up the history:
The History of Guy Fawkes

There is a traditional nursery rhyme/poem about the night which most Americans will remember parts of from the graphic novel/movie V for Vendetta. I can't actually imagine treating this as a nursery rhyme....

The Fifth of November

Remember, remember! 
   

The fifth of November, 
   

The Gunpowder treason and plot; 
   

I know of no reason 
   

Liverpool Bonfire Night 2013

Why the Gunpowder treason 
   

Should ever be forgot! 
   

Guy Fawkes and his companions 
   

Did the scheme contrive, 
   

To blow the King and Parliament 
   

All up alive. 
   

Threescore barrels, laid below, 
   

To prove old England's overthrow. 
   

But, by God's providence,

him they catch, 
   

With a dark lantern, lighting a match! 
   

A stick and a stake 
   

For King James's sake! 
   

If you won't give me one, 
   

I'll take two, 
   

The better for me, 
   

And the worse for you. 
   

A rope, a rope, to hang the Pope, 
   

A penn'orth of cheese to choke him, 
   

A pint of beer to wash it down, 
   

And a jolly good fire to burn him. 
   

Holloa, boys! holloa, boys! make the bells ring! 
   

Holloa, boys! holloa boys! God save the King! 
   

Hip, hip, hooor-r-r-ray!

A Chinese Lantern in early flight

So for a night that basically started as a celebration of the power of the monarchy and the dominance of the Protestant faith over Catholicism, there is a surprising amount of revelry in town. In Liverpool I didn't see any Guy Fawkes references, or "Guys" being burnt in effigy.  What I did see, however, was an awesome fireworks display in Sefton Park, set to music! Justin and I jumped on the metro and rode one stop to join the crowds walking to the park for the show. There were thousands of people, talking and lighting sparklers while waiting for the fireworks to start. Some people even lit Chinese lanterns which drifted off above the crowds. To the left is a photo of a lantern in early fight. Imagine this thing drifting higher and higher in the clouds as the flames in the bottom grew. It was beautiful and mildly terrifying at the same time. I wondered about their safety as this flaming bag flew over the heads of the crowd but figured it wasn't too concerning, but when I came home I read a horrible article about a Chinese lantern starting a fire at a plastic recycling plant near Birmingham. The fire is still burning and polluting the air!  

Anyway, when the fireworks started I was impressed by the fact that they were not just accompanied by music, but "choreographed" to it. I guess you "choreograph" fireworks? Each song featured lyrics related to fire or burning. We heard a punk version of Ring of Fire and Elvis singing Burning Love in addition to other songs. The whole thing lasted about 15 minutes but all who watched were satisfied. I took some marginal video with my camera:

Since last night I've been thinking about why I didn't notice any Guy Fawkes references throughout my day in town. I'm wondering if it is due to the fact that there is a large population of Catholics in Liverpool. Many people have Irish Catholic backgrounds and one hundred years ago there was so much tension between the faiths that Liverpool was as volatile as Belfast, Northern Ireland. Perhaps playing up fireworks and bonfires takes the tension away? I guess I'll have to make a Liverpudlian friend to get an answer!

I arrived!

I won't bore everyone with a play-by-play of my arrival in the UK.  I left PDX on Sunday and three flights later I walked through UK immigration clearance with a suitcase, a backpack and a bike box to find Steady J waiting for me on Monday morning! Hooray I'm here!

Yesterday we ran important errands like getting my monthly metro pass and buying a phone! I got my first smart phone and can't believe that I now have a phone that is probably more powerful than the computer I had my freshman year of college. The guy in the phone store asked me what I was looking for in a phone and he did a great job of not laughing when I said..."well, I want a phone. Probably one with a camera...." Comical because that described everything in the entire store. I can't decide if it is good or bad that I am this blown away by technological advances. Anyway, I successfully acquired a phone which I have so far used to call Justin, text Justin, check email and look at Google maps. I have one contact in my phone. His name is Dr. Steady J.

Below is a photo of the Mersey River taken from the promenade in Otterspool Park on my first evening in Liverpool. The park is in our neighborhood, a five minute walk from our apartment. I mean "flat".  A five minute walk from our flat. See, I'm getting the hang of this!

Onward and Upward!

My visa to move to England was approved with no problems! Getting it back in the mail was a huge sigh of relief coupled with Kermit the Frog level excitement:

 

Now that my UK arrival is set in stone, I can pump up the job search and keep reading about the UK and getting a handle on British culture.  My colleague who recently returned from a Fulbright in the UK  told me about this great NY Times article about cultural differences between American and Brits. It was written by an American who is returning to the US after many years living in England and I found it to be a great read: Ta-Ta, London, Hello, Awesome.

$h*# Just Got Real!

The countdown to living in the UK is officially underway! Today I sent in my visa application and if all goes well I will officially be Liverpool Lil on November 4th!